Lamp Buying Guide

Most new lamp shades list three to four measurements. If you want a direct replacement for your old shade, it’s important that you know what to measure. You’ll need a measuring tape (or yardstick), along with a pen or pencil to accurately document the specifications:

1. Top diameter – If it’s a round shade, hold the tape on one edge of the circular top and pull it across the open shade to the direct opposite side. For square shades, simply measure from one flat edge to the opposite one.
2. Bottom diameter – Not a shocker here. Just repeat the same steps, but do it on the bottom of the shade.
3. Slant or slope – Hold the tape at the bottom edge and measure along the side to the top edge. Make sure that you are holding it straight and not tilted to the left or right. This is an important measurement for tapered lamp shades.
4. Height – Set the shade on a flat surface and lower the tape through the opening from the top. Place one end on the tabletop and measure the distance to the top edge. Make sure that the tape is perfectly vertical. For drum or cube-shaped shades, the height can be taken by simply measuring the side.

Here are a few “rules of thumb” if you want something different than your current shade:

1. Shades should be roughly 2/3 the height of the visible portion of the lamp base.
2. Lamp shades should have a width that is roughly equal to the height of the visible lamp base.
3. Shades should be wider than the widest part of the base, but narrower than the table on which it sits.

Over time, your lamp may start to cast a yellowish glow. Sometimes, it’s due to discoloration of the shade from heat emitted the bulb. If that’s the case, there’s not much to do except buy a new shade. If it’s the result of stains or dirt build-up, there are ways to safely clean your shade. Cleaning fabric lamp shades:

1. Wipe your shade with a soft microfiber cloth or use a feather duster to remove loose dirt.
2. Fill a large basin or bathtub with mildly warm water. Add a teaspoon of liquid laundry detergent and swish it around until the water is filled with suds.
3. Dip a sponge, soft-bristled brush or toothbrush into the soapy water and lightly scrub any clearly visible spots or stains. Be gentle and scrub in a circular motion.
4. Grasp the shade by the metal fitting and submerge the fabric shade in the water. Move it around until all areas are damp. Soak the shade for 10-15 minutes, depending on how dirty it is.
5. Remove the shade from the water and wipe with a clean cloth. Shake any excess soap from the shade.
6. Empty the basin or tub and refill it with warm water. Dip the lampshade up and down in the water to remove any remaining soap. You can also rinse it under straight tap water at low pressure.
7. Use a soft hand towel to blot the shade and remove excess water. Place the shade in front of a fan outdoors to speed up drying.

Cleaning shades made from other materials:

1. Use a feather duster or clean cloth to remove loose dirt that may have accumulated on your shade.
2. Pour 1/4 cup of liquid laundry detergent (for delicates) into a small container or bowl.
3. Add a couple of tablespoons of warm water and beat it with a hand whisk or electric mixer. Continue until the suds have the consistency of whipped cream.
4. Dip a clean rag or sponge into the soapy mixture and gently wipe the shade. Be sure to address both the inside and outside of the shade. Try to avoid getting too much soap on any glued seams.
5. Rinse out the sponge or rag and wipe down the lampshade, until all of the soapy build-up is gone.
6. Dab and blot the shade carefully with a clean towel to dry. Set it in front of a fan to dry any remaining moisture.

Brass has a shiny rich color that complements a variety of palettes and brings warmth to a home. It’s an alloy comprised of zinc and copper that tarnishes quickly when exposed to air. To minimize oxidation, some brass lamps have a lacquer coating. However, even when lacquered, brass eventually tarnishes over time. Cleaning tarnished brass lamps takes some work, but it’s worth the effort.

1. Fill your bucket or sink with warm water and a squirt or two of dishwashing liquid. Soak a clean microfiber cloth and wring it until it is damp.
2. Unplug your lamp and remove the light bulb and shade. Using the damp cloth, wipe and scrub the brass surface to remove loose dirt and dust.
3. Clean nooks, crannies and other hard to reach areas with a soapy toothbrush.
4. Dry the brass lamp with a soft hand towel.
5. Take a clean cloth and apply the brass cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s directions. Rub the cleaner into the brass using circular and back and forth motions, following the direction of the grain. Work in small areas, reapply the cleaner as needed. Continue working until the entire lamp is cleaned.
6. Let the cleaner dry. Often times, it will turn into a light white film on the lamp’s surface. Wipe away the film with a soft cloth.
7. Replace the shade and plug in your lamp – you’re done!

If the brass is lacquered, you will need to remove the coating before you can clean the tarnish. After the fourth step listed above:

1. Go to a well-ventilated room and put on a pair of rubber gloves. Soak a cotton ball in ammonia or nail polish remover and wipe the lamp to remove the lacquer. Rewash the brass with soapy water and dry.
2. After you’ve applied the cleaner, return to your ventilated area and spray the brass with a light coating of polyurethane or lacquer. Hold the spray can 6-8 inches from the metal and apply 2-3 light coats to ensure full coverage.
3. Once the lacquer is completely dry, you can replace the bulb and shade. Plug the brass lamp back in and dust it lightly to keep it looking shiny and new.

Lamps can be tricky items to pack, whether you’re moving across town or across the country. They come in odd shapes and sizes, and are more delicate than other household items. With a little planning and preparation, however, you can safely protect your lamps from being damaged in transit.

1. Get your materials – Buy or find sturdy cardboard boxes that will accommodate your lamp base and shade individually. Be sure to accurately measure each piece to ensure that the boxes are large enough to fit them comfortably. You should also get plain newsprint paper, bubble wrap or packing peanuts. Lastly, you’ll need packing tape and a permanent marker.
2. Separate the pieces of the lamp – First, unplug your lamp (of course). Unscrew the light bulb and remove the lamp shade before you pack anything. Even if you wrap everything up tightly, lamps can get jostled around and cause harps to bend, shades to dent and bulbs to shatter. It’s better to separate each piece at the beginning. Wrap the cord around the base and tuck the plug in to prevent it from unraveling.
3. Wrap them up – If you bought newsprint or bubble wrap, spread a large sheet on a clean flat surface. Lay the lamp on its side in the middle, so that the protective material extends beyond the ends. Roll it up and secure the seam and ends with tape. If the base is particularly fragile (e.g. glass or ceramic), you might want to give it a second wrapping t make sure it’s adequately protected. Wrap the bulb and harp in newsprint and tape them closed.
4. Box and label the base – Set the lamp in the box base down. If there’s room, you might want to tape the wrapped bulb and harp to the sides. Otherwise, you can pack them with the shade. Fill in any gaps between the base and box with packing material to prevent it from shifting during transport. Close the box and seal it shut with packing tape. Label the box with the marker and include the words “fragile” and “this end up” on all sides. To avoid confusion on the back end, you might also indicate in which room the lamp belongs.
5. Box the shade – Place the shade in the other box. If it’s a paper or fabric shade, make sure your hands are clean, so you don’t leave dirty fingerprints. Gently cover the shade with packing material, but leave some room at the top. You don’t want it to be crushed, once you close and tape the box shut. If you have a Tiffany or glass lamp shade, you can be a bit more liberal with the bubble wrap or other material. Cover it completely and then fill in gaps like you did with the base.

If your lamp has a harp (the wire that attaches to the lamp and goes over and around the light bulb), you will need a spider lamp shade. The term “spider” refers to how the shade attaches to the lamp, which is known as the fitting. Spider lamp shades have the most common type of fitting for both floor and table lamps.

Spider lamp shades are easily identified. Look at the metal fitting inside the shade. If you see at least three spider-like arms radiating from a central ring toward the top, it’s a spider shade. The ring fits over the top of the harp and is secured with a screw-on cap. These caps are called finials and they are often decorative and may match the lamp base.

If the ring is lower (toward the middle of the shade), it’s probably an UNO fitter. UNO fitters secure to the socket at the base of the bulb, rather than over the harp. If you see a couple wire loops at the center of the fitting, you’re likely looking at clip-on fitter. These fitters are handy if you lose a harp or don’t have an UNO shade. They simply slip over the light bulb, so you should avoid clip-on fittings for heavy shades.