Wooden patio furniture cleaning tips
This section of our outdoor furniture cleaning and care guide focuses on frequently used woods. Most wooden garden tables and seating are constructed from hardwoods that can be cleaned and cared for similarly.
General wood cleaning steps
- Remove light debris with a soft nylon bristled brush
- Clean the surface using a sponge or damp cloth with mild household soap and lukewarm water
- Soak up any excess water with a microfiber or lint-free cloth
- Allow the wood to dry naturally
If you let the woodgrain patina (typically fade to a lighter color), you can get by with cleaning wooden patio furniture once or twice a year. If you want to retain the wood’s natural brown color, you’ll need to clean it more regularly and treat it with furniture oil and possibly a light layer of sealant [Jirous-Rajkovic & Miklecic 2018]. The frequency depends on your climate and if the furniture is sheltered. Drier climates or areas with more sun exposure will require more frequent maintenance. Spills should be cleaned immediately to minimize potential staining.
Teak
Over time, teak furniture develops a pleasing silvery gray patina that’s a cosmetic change and not an indication of dryness or physical defect. Its natural oils help keep this hardwood strong and durable in many environments, so there’s little maintenance. Teak is so weather-resistant that it doesn’t need to be stored over the winter or covered with protective tarps.
Keeping your teak’s warm woodgrain look
To retain your teak’s original golden honey finish you can periodically oil the wood. This works great if your furniture is indoors, but oiled teak is more likely to mildew and may develop irregular coloring when it’s outside. So, you might want to apply a protective sealant to keep the teak’s natural color instead of oiling it or do both just to be sure.
- Give new teak furniture a couple of weeks outdoors
- Clean the wood
- Apply a thin coat of sealer
- Wait one hour before applying a second coat
- Wait an additional 4-5 hours before using the furnishings
Smoothing out the weathered texture of teakwood
The pores of some woods may rise after the first couple of cleanings, creating a roughened texture to the grain. You may need to sand lightly to retain its smooth surface. Additionally, wood will expand and contract over time, so make it a point to check for loose joints each spring and tighten when needed.
Manufacturer Video Tip – Teak
Shorea (a.k.a. Meranti or Balau)
This dense tropical hardwood has a high oil concentration that lessens the chance that it will rot and protects it from insects. Like teak, shorea weathers to an attractive silvery gray color after it’s been outdoors. If you’re okay with that, you only need to lightly clean your wood patio furniture once or twice a year.
Retaining your shorea furnishing’s deep color
To keep shorea wood’s original warm reddish-brown tone, you’ll need to oil the wood every couple of months. As with teak, clean and dry shorea before applying linseed or teak oil or sealer. To be safe, test the oil on a small unnoticeable area. Rub it in with a small paintbrush or soft cloth and allow the surface to dry before seeing if you like the color.
Dealing with mildew & mold on shorea wooden garden furniture
If you live in a warm and damp climate, mold or mildew may grow on your deck chairs and tables. These fungi are not harmful to most hardwoods but could leave unsightly marks and pose health risks to people and pets. Although bleach-based cleaning products are often recommended, some formulations may weaken the wood and leave discolorations.
After a normal cleaning, if your wooden furniture still shows signs of mold or mildew, you need to step up your game. Mix a solution with the ingredients below and apply it with a sponge or soft-bristled brush.
- 1 cup of ammonia
- 1/2 cup of white vinegar
- 1/4 cup of baking soda
- 1 gallon of warm to hot water
Any remaining mold that has worked its way into the wood should be sanded out. If that’s the case, use fine-grained sandpaper and refinish or oil the wood afterward.
BUY TEAK OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Eucalyptus (a.k.a. Jarrah)
This hardwood has a lower oil content than teak or shorea and is less water-resistant. Consequently, humid environments and climates with dramatic seasonal temperature shifts can cause eucalyptus to expand and contract – compromising the structural integrity of outdoor patio furniture or deck flooring.
Protect eucalyptus against cracking
The most common result is cracking, so it’s a good idea to oil and seal eucalyptus with a polyurethane-type varnish a few times a year. Not only will that maintain the wood’s strength and protect it from rot and insects, but it will also give eucalyptus a rich color and lustrous finish. Clean and dry eucalyptus furniture before applying 2-3 coats of protective sealer. Allow each coat to dry for two hours before applying the next.
Be sure to wipe off any standing water after a rainfall to minimize unnecessary moisture contact. If your patio or outdoor area permits keep eucalyptus tables and chairs out of direct sunlight. The UV rays can break down the wood fiber over time and cause discoloration. You can also use a vented protective vinyl cover to help it last longer and stay in top shape.
Ipe (a.k.a. Ironwood, Brazilian Walnut & Pao Lope)
This South American hardwood is reportedly three times as hard as teak and shares many of the same weathering characteristics. If left outside, ipe furniture will mellow from its natural dark brown to pewter gray. Despite the aesthetic color fade, the structural integrity of this long-lasting wood will remain strong over the years. Most of the time, light cleaning will suffice. However, should tree sap drip on it or mildew collect on the surface, you can clean ipe with a little more vigor than most hardwoods. Use a stiff brush, mild soap and water to remove or lessen difficult stains. Rinse all remaining residue off with a hose and let dry.
Maintaining your ipe furniture’s rich coloration
Retain ipe’s naturally dark color by oiling it 3-4 times a year. However, before the initial oiling, you should let your furniture weather for 30-60 days. This makes it easier for the oil to penetrate the dense wood. It may also be necessary to lightly sand the surface to remove minor stains before applying the oil. Varnish or wood sealants should not be used on ipe sunroom furniture since the filmy layer will quickly flake and peel after you apply it.
Don’t worry if the wood exhibits hairline surface cracks or minor checking. This is an expected result of constant exposure to changing temperatures and the elements.
White Oak
White oak is strong, waterproof and rot-resistant, but has a low oil content relative to other hardwoods used for outdoor furniture. It should be oiled annually and protected with spar varnish or exterior urethane sealant to retain its original light or stained color. Replenishing the oil content also helps to diminish weather checking that can occur when the wood is exposed to the elements for long periods. Over time, without sealant, white oak will turn dark brown or even black. However, it may be a good idea to let new furniture weather for a season or two before applying one. Instead of a clear coat that allows the natural wood grain to show through, you can also paint it white.
Helpful Article
We recommend reading the woods section of our Ultimate Guide to Outdoor Furniture Materials to look at the plusses and minuses of various woods.
Woods are just one common material
Teak, shorea, eucalyptus, ipe and white oak are woods frequently used for outdoor furniture but there are other materials. The next section of our guide outlines several of the metals utilized for frames.
Guide Sections
References
- Jirous-Rajkovic, V., & Miklecic, J. (2018). Weathering Resistance of Modified Wood-A Review.
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